The success of my two previous trek inspired me to have a try for another one. So I started for searching for another trek location. My job was a bit difficult one. I need to find the partners as well. Finally all come to a converging point. The team was build courtesy to IndiaMike. We discussed a lot before finalizing the destination. And it happened to be Gomukh – Tapovan and if possible then Vasuki Taal. All prepared but nature was not in supportive mood this year. The torrential rainfall of the monsoon resulted several landslides and blockage of road. Finally we received Green signal from DFO, Uttarkashi regarding our permit. It was all set to start. 

The Team ( From Left - SUKHENDU, SAIKAT CHOUDHURI, ARIJIT, MYSELF(SAIKAT) & GOURAV

Day 1 – 14^th. October - . ( Howrah to Delhi)

We, The Five, met at Howrah Station to board the Delhi bound Juba Express. As soon as we reached the station it started raining outside. The train left in time but it was quite a eventful 19 hours journey. The Light was always on and the air-conditioning system was running at its maximum pace…..No attendant……No blanket….Everybody crying in severe cold….but no body was there to help you…..end of a horrible night as everybody kept awake all through…..

Day 2 – 15^th. October – (Delhi to Hrishikesh)

The train reached Delhi about an hour late. After having our lunch we spend some time searching for communication to Haridwar. Finally we managed to reach Hrishikesh by a reserve car from Saharapur which was a 4 hours train journey from Delhi. It was 10.30…we were all extremely tired…soon we had our dinner and went to bed.

Day 3 – 16^th. October – (Hrishikesh to Uttarkashi to Gangotri)

The journey began at exactly 5.30 in the morning from Hrishikesh. The road was not in good shape in different locations and took a long time to take us to Uttarkashi. On our way, we had the first view of snow clad mountains from chamba where we had our breakfast. 

 Distant Mountain Range fromChamba

Teheri Dam 

It was almost 12 noon as we reached there and found Kishanji just opposite to our jeep. Soon we went to DFO office to collect the permit with Kishanji. We were pretty sure that it would not going to take too much time as we had already faxed all the relevant documents earlier. But to our great surprise we found the office closed on occasion of Navaratri. Next day, being Dashera, was also a holiday. Kishanji advised to collect it directly from Gangotri. We then completed the rest of marketing and after lunch we started for Gangotri with full team of 11 members. After a short Tea break near Harsil we reached Gangotri around 7 PM and took shelter inside a small Hotel. After having the dinner we tried to have a walk around but The weather was really cold outside as we went into our sleep.

Day 4 – 17^th October

( Gangotri town & Surrondings)

As per the decision of our guide, we did some small trek around Gangotri. We visited Gourkund, Suryakund and Pandav Gumpha.The trail to Pandav Gumpha was a real tricky one and one family got stuck in between seeking for help and eventually rescued by Kishanji. 

 Surya Kund

Then he asked for some height gain and we trekked for a couple of hour along the trail to Kedartal and went back. The afternoon was spent leisurely with some shopping and we prayed our pujas at Gangotri Temple. Our support staffs came in action as the prepared a hot dinner. By this time Kishanji arranged for the requisite permit for the trek. All set …….we went to our bed after final packing of our luggage.

  

Gangotri Temple

Day 5 – 18^th. October, ( Gangotri to Chirwasa)

It was a bright and sunny day. Sudarshan Peak was looking glorious in front of blue sky. And we started the trek after having our breakfast.

 Sudarshan Peak

After 2 km of moderately steep trail we reached the chekpost which is the entry point of Gangotri National Park. To our Great surprise we were allotted permission only for 2 days and that was again only upto Gomukh. Discussion did not help….and we decided to stick to our plan and pay the late fine during our return…..and the trek began again.

 The trail gradient was easy but the only thing was that it was not in good shape in some areas. We crossed Three log bridge on our way and the second one was a bit scary as it was really loose to hold your balance. Gradually the Sudarshan range became invisible from our right frontal side and 2km before Chirwasa, the Bhagirathi- II came to our sight. As we progressed closer to Chirwasa, Bhagitahi – III & Bhagirathi – I came visible.

 Bhagirathi from Chirwasa

After some discussion we decided to camp for the day. I always like to stay as many places as possible during my trek and explore the region. So, the tents were pitched and we had our lunch. We spend the rest of day enjoying Sun, The Bhagirathi River, Bhagirathi Sisters peak in front, Mandar Parbat & Bhrigupanth to our right. After sunset, temperature dropped suddenly and we enjoyed camp fire. Three of us had their first experience of sleeping inside the tent with sleeping bag. That was another story of joy & laughter. Good Night.

 Bhagirathi during Sunset 

Day 6 – 19^th. October, (Chirwasa to Bhojwasa )

The day was going to a easy day. So, it all started leisurely with hot coffee. Being October, the sunlight hit Chirwasa not before 8 o’clock. Accordingly we made the packing relaxing and finally started the trek to Bhojwasa around 10.15. We got beautiful views of Mandar Parbat & Vrigupanth Range. 

 

  It was a easy gradient trail once again. The only danger was to be careful about the loose rock coming down the slope of our leftside mountain wall. We had some story regarding some accident around the rock fall zone last night from Kishanji. So, we made that stretch carefully & quickly and by no time we reached Bhojwasa. We decided to camp just beside the river. It was another glorious day….full of bright sunshine….clear blue sky……but cold wind was chilling our body. We enjoyed a round of 
volley ball there….took some snaps before it became darker outside.

           Bhagirathi Sisters from Bhojwasa  

It was too cold at Bhojwasa mainly because of the wind chill factor. We had several round of tea & soup to keep ourselves warm. Finally it is the time to go inside our tent….wind picked up as if it would like to blow our tents….finally I went into deep sleep. 

Day 7 – 20^th. October ( Bhojwasa to Tapovan via Gomukh)

To day is the day…..we all got up early. As always, Rakesh Bhai was ready with hot coffee. The wind was subsided as we were taking breakfast. We started the trek at exactly 9.25 in my watch. The trail was almost same and gradient was really easy to handle. After an hour the Gomukh was first visible from a distance which inspired us quite a bit. Around 11.15 we reached Gomukh and I was the last man to reach there. We had a good half an hour rest with some photo session before the glacier trek began.

 

  Soon we realized it was not going to be that easy anymore. The trail was full of boulders….no defined route….occasional crevasse scattered alongside….and a big stone, indicated by kishanji to be our goal. Bhagirathi gradually went out of sight and Shivling becoming more prominent as we were stretching our legs. Kishanji was managing the trail mark and we were just following him. All I had to do was to use my hands in some big boulders where my stretched legs could not manage the trail. But soon I gathered confidence as Kishanji taught me how to encounter those and magically I was not the last man anymore.  

     Mean while the packed lunch was served and that was the experience of having lunch over Glacier bed. Kishanji did not allow us to rest….”Chalte Rahena Sir…Nehi to ….Yeh Glacier hain….Apko weight-me ice pighal jaiga to….” He smiled..That word was enough for us. It took almost two hours to cross the glacier bed and we reached the climax point.

We need a 700 meters vertical climb…..no trail…not foothold as landslide during monsoon washed away every man made trail on that stretch. We somehow managed at that using our hands with Kishanji helped us by cutting some steps with Ice Axe. It took one hour to encounter and finally we laid ourselves on the vast meadow of Tapovan…..at the foot of Shivling….with Bhagirathi Sisters standing tall to our left…..and the mighty Gangotri glacier in between…..the heavenly blue sky up above…..Yes…it must be THE PLAY GROUND OF THE GOD. 

Tapovan

Some snaps….some soup & tea…some lazy walk along the valley…but a different soul….we were bemused….where we are? Dusk came and the wind chill forced us inside our tents. That night it was the time of sharing our experience on the trail and the story continued….how long? We forgot to keep our eyes on watch…eventually…it ended as we greeted good night to each other. 

Day 8 – 21^st. October ( Tapovan to Meru Glacier to Tapovan)

It was a bright and sunny day that greeted us as we discovered mighty Shivling in blue sky just after opening the Zip of the tent. Sun was flooding the top of Shivling, Meru & Bhagirathi Sisters peak but was yet to reach the valley. Cold wind was the order of the morning. I just stared the massive creation of God….how long?....i don’t know. Soon we had our tea and went out. We hardly spoke to each other. Complete silence of the surroundings was disturbed by occasional clicks of shutter.  The world was glorious all around which is beyond any description.

 Shivling

 Meru Peak

After breakfast we started the trek towards Meru Glacier. The top of which is sometimes called as upper base camp of Shivling. 

 It was another 1000 feet strenuous climb through boulders and some stretches were difficult to negotiate for some novice trekker like us. Occasional snow patches scattered in between which was hard and slippery. It took almost a couple of hour to reach the top and provided amazing view of the entire Meru Peak and Meru Glacier. Sree Kailash(local) peak was also visible from that point on exactly opposite to Meru peak. And to our left, only the top of Shivling raising its head up behind it baby( Baby Shivling). 

Meru Peak with Meru Glacier     

We enjoyed a lot and started descending. And I realized that the descend is several times tougher than the strenuous ascend. Eventually, we made it down to Tapovan with occasional skid which was not so dangerous al together.  The only sad thing was not to have the Neel Tal. It was completely drained out of water.

The night was possibly the best night I have ever had during my 10 years trek & trips to Himalayas. It was the full moon night. After dinner, as we came out, the heaven came to us. The entire meadow was flooded by the glowing smooth light of the moon. The Shivling and Meru peak was sparkling infront of the black sky……….stars were adding texture to it……the great reward of the almighty……and only then I realized why it is the Play Ground of God. It was too cold….wind was blowing at its own pace…..which prevented us to climb the small top to take a view of Bhagirathi. 

Shivling & Meru Peak with our Tent below

Next day would going to be journey towards Nandanvan….so we did take the sleeping bag.

Day 9 – 22^nd. October

Man proposes but God Disposes…..It was around 7.00 AM as we all came out of our tent just to find overcast sky above us. First time during our 8 days in Himalayas we were betrayed by Sun. So it was the time of lot of discussion with Kishanji about what to do. The vastly experienced guide warned us about the probable snowfall and advised to descend down to Bhojasa. The team was not ready to do so…….and discussion was going on. Finally we settled to stay but skip Nandanvan…..worse place to have snowfall without any shelter and drinking water. And again we are not enough equipped to encounter snow. That decision was proved to be extremely wise later.

So, after breakfast we proceeded to have a look to Kirti Glacier. We crossed the Tapovan meadow and climbed up a mountain ridge with grand view of Bhagirathi sisters to our left, Shivling to our right, karchakund in front, and Basuki Parbat was showing her face over Nandanvan.

              Karchakund

Suddenly wind peaked up. Within a few moments clouds came thick & fast and the prediction of Kishanji was correct…….Snow began to come lightly. Surrounding became to cold ……. Visibility became poor…..pace of snowfall started to increase and we had to return towards our Tent.

It continued……and within a couple of hour the green valley of Tapovan changed its color to white. We enjoyed fire under a boulder shade…had some playing of cards…..some singing with the all the members….and thinking how to descend next day.

The night was another unforgettable night of my life. Snow peaked up……continued….wind was blowing sharply to blow our tents….we kept whole night awake to clean our tents not to be damaged by the amount of snow over it. Kishanji worked with his axe to clear the snow from the wall of the tent regularly…..and finally we had some day light just to discover a complete white surroundings all through.

Two Tents after Overnight Snowfall

Day 10, 23^rd. October

It was difficult to reach the make shift kitchen from our tents through 1 feet snow on the ground. We did not have gaiter to encounter that much of snow. After break fast the team started to descend with lots of advise from Kishanji about how to tackle that snow.

Descend from Tapovan

“balance piche….perh tircha”…was the continuous caution in his mouth which means “ lean back and lay your feet at an angle”.

Now that slope from Tapovan to Glacier bed….almost 90 degree inclination with full layer of snow. We all got scared…just one slip would take us some 500 feet below. Kishanji started cutting the steps and we followed with trembling body….slipped several times….got our foot stuck under ice….rescued by either Kishanji or Rakesh Bhai…some peaked up injuries with sudden slip but managed to reach the Glacier bed. First hurdle overcomed.

Now what??? Crossing the Gangotri Glacier….full of snow…all the crevasses were not visible. Kishanji left us to identify the way…..Signaled with his raising arm and we followed. That continued for ONE long our and finally we survived. I still wonder how that man was able to find the exact way with no visibility of any land or crevasse….thats a great mystery.

 Real Tough Trail

Later he admitted that even he lost the way on a particular point and heading straight towards the heart of a snow covered crevasse and checked at the final moment. That was the crevasse where an Army man was died helplessly after surviving for 2 long days, just a week ago.

Finally, we reached Gomukh….and what a change…the dusty look of Gomukh was completely white with a thick layer of snow. I had seen thousands of picture of Gomukh snout but this is first one of my life.

                   

We took some well deserved rest, had some packed lunch, and headed towards Chirwasa with snow along side the trail. I had a damaged knee which started to show it pain now. That injui I peaked up during one slip over the Glacier bed and my right knee hit straight into a snow covered boulder. I literally dragged myself one footed up to Chirwasa and finally applied some medicine.

We enjoyed a long camp fire there before finally take our sleeping out for the end of the most scary, beautiful and eventful day of the trek.     

Day 11, 24^th. October,

The last day of the trek started leisurely and it was comparatively bright morning to greet us. We packed up our luggage and began our walk slowly. It took around 3 hours to reach the check post again where we had some tough negotiation with the Officer in charge. He was asking for Rs 5000/- for extra 5 days. Then Kishanji came to rescue us and we finally settled for Rs 2500/-. Another 15 minutes or so took us to Gangotri and that ends the trek at the point where it all began.

Some hot lunch…..some negotiation with Jeep…..and the whole team headed for Uttarkashi. We had some celebration there with full team and finally it was well past 12 midnight as we went to our bed.

Day 12, 25^th. Oct

An uneventful day….leisurely we packed our luggage. Then it was the time to say Good Bye to Kishanji and other members. It was a long 9 days sharing stories, thoughts, ideas with them. Finally we parted to our Haridwar bound car and reached in the evening.

Day 13, 26^th. October

It was our free day. Members choose to pick their own activities. Some stayed inside the hotel room….some went to Hrishikesh….some enjoyed the Haidwar city and finally we boarded the Howrah bound train at 11.55 PM.

It was on 28^th, October as we reached Howrah.

Back to the civilization…busy with daily activities…...we can just cherish the pictures and the memories of the beautiful trek of 9 long days.

The beauty….the never ending call of mountains is ringing the bell continuously inside my sole……come again……may be….some near future!!!!

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